Atacama Desert

The Atacama Desert in Northern Chile is one of the driest places on earth, yet life not only survives but thrives. I’m not quite sure what I was expecting when Mark said we were heading to the desert for more hiking, mountains and volcanoes, but I was pleasantly surprised by what we discovered. In and around San Pedro de Atacama, we saw everything from moon-like landscapes, starry galaxies, stunning sunsets, saltwater lagoons, salt flats, flamingos, volcanoes, slot canyons, green valleys, houses built from straw and mud and the coolest little bustling town. 

Mark was in awe of the landscapes, and I was thrilled to see fresh fruits and vegetables. Definitely not what I was expecting to find in the desert! It was looking like Chile was going to have something for both of us.

San Pedro de Atacama sits at about 2400 m above sea level, which was a good introduction to the elevation we would experience on this leg of the trip. It was recommended that we acclimate in town before we ventured off to any higher destinations. We relaxed a bit and packed our water bottles to head out to the Valley of the Moon. It really did look like the moon! We did a little hiking while keeping an eye on our heart rates, and thankfully, we felt good and adjusted well.  We saw a beautiful sunset and soaked in the spectacular views. 

The next day, we headed to the saltwater lagoon for a float. The water was cool and refreshing. Mark was amazed at his buoyancy. He had never really experienced floating before, but with 30% salt content, he felt like he was walking on water! The highlight of my day was Lake Chaxa, where we got to see flamingos in their natural environment! 

While acclimating, it was recommended that we take things slowly, drink as much water as our bodies could possibly handle, eat smaller meals and drink no alcohol. No problem. I really didn’t want altitude sickness, so I was prepared to excel at these recommendations… unfortunately, my head and bladder had other plans! I drank a lot and peed even more… yet still I got a headache. I figured I just needed more water, so I continued to drink, which, if you know me at all, is challenging unless the beverage comes in a red can! I drank so much water that I got up five times in the night to pee. It was so dry that when I got up, I had to drink even more water - my mouth was like sandpaper. I drank a litre of water in the night alone between bathroom trips! I was worried; this level of water consumption was not sustainable. 

With Advil and Tylenol on board and, of course, a truckload of water, we continued to push our bodies with more elevation gain throughout the week. The drugs had helped with the headache the first couple of days, and soon I was trekking at 4200 meters above sea level, drug-free, without too many complaints. 

Our daily outings took us to some amazing locations, which surprised us both. We hiked through dry dusty slot canyons and lush green valleys. We saw lots of animals, desert plants, and red rock that reminded us of Utah.

There were such vast contrasts in the land and its geography that Mark was in heaven. At least he felt pretty close to it with the crystal clear night skies. We went stargazing after sunsets, and on our last night in the desert, we visited an observatory. We learned all about space and got to see galaxies,  stars, moons and planets through some incredible telescopes.

Honestly, our five days in the desert were out of this world, and the food and people were too! Life is not only surviving here, but it is also thriving, and we were too! Next stop Peru.   Machu Picchu, here we come…, but first, I need to stop for a bathroom break! 

New Country - Curveballs in Chile!

 We landed in Santiago, Chile, with much warmer weather and a few curveballs to make our stay a little more interesting.

Some of the sites around town and the market.

Our first one was showing up at the cable car on the first Monday of the month, which is maintenance day, and, therefore, it wasn't running. We wanted to see the statue at the top, and we'd just been dropped off by our Uber, so we decided to hike it, in flip-flops with NO water! Not a good move at all. Luckily, near the top, there was a kiosk where we could buy water. The hike was not too strenuous, unlike the previous hiking expeditions Mark has had me on, but it was challenging enough given our preparedness. There were some great views, and we definately earned our dinner that night. 

Curveball number two occurred during our walk around town. We felt what we thought was water or bird poop. It was strange; there was no bird when we looked up, nor were we very close to a building. Sure enough, both Mark and I were covered in 'stuff'. If it were bird poop, the bird was the size of an ostrich. The very nice fellow behind us offered me Kleenex and guided us over to the fountain to wash up, then proceeded to try to take my purse. Yep, we had been bird poop scammed. Thankfully, we got off pretty lucky except when it came to trying to wash the 'stuff' out of our clothing! I was not a happy camper. 

All of the vendors have a specialty. We saw vendors selling just hair accessories, some sink drains, and other white bowls! I took the picture of our meal above because there is a tentacle sticking out of Mark's seafood rice!!!

Curveball number three was booking a manicure and pedicure in what I thought was a salon, but ended up being the nail tech's apartment. Turned out to be the best curveball ever! I had a Russian manicure and pedicure, and it was the best experience I've had getting my nails done... ever. They looked beautiful, and somehow the nail technician managed to make my feet appear as if they hadn't been blistered and calloused from the last five weeks of hiking and trekking! 

Ready for the pool! I tried to coerce Mark into getting a pedicure, too, but he refused!

We just had a quick two-day stop in Santiago, but that was enough of the city. We were looking forward to heading to the Atacama Desert!

Our Argentinian Observations

We have been in Argentina for about a month, and in that time I’ve made some interesting observations. 

Travel

Ubers are plentiful and cheap in many areas and non-existent in others. Whether you are in a taxi or an Uber, or a taxi double-dipping as a Uber, tailgating is an Olympic sport! Traffic signs and the lines painted in the middle of the roads are merely suggestions. If you are driving uphill or downhill in some areas, you have the right of way. Where was this rule when I was learning to drive a stick shift? At some intersections, you have to play a game of chicken to determine who goes first. Regardless of who wins, there are usually lots of hand gestures and horns. We rented two different cars, and Mark had loads of fun driving, especially when approaching an intersection where it was anyone’s guess whose turn it was to proceed! 

Squeezing into the itty-bitty cars!

Cuisine

Meat is everywhere and quite delicious, along with lots of bread and cheese! Vegetables are only present as garnishes except for potatoes. Eggs are in everything; on top of meat, pizza, in pastry, on pasta and in salads. They even have their own shops which sell only eggs.  People carry skids of eggs and strap them on the back of bicycles as if they are not fragile at all. You will be hard-pressed to order something that doesn’t have an egg in it somewhere in Argentina! The prices of groceries are also interesting. You can buy a beautiful steak for $4.00, and in that same shop, a bag of chips is $11.00, go figure! I've also noticed that a bottle or can of Coke can vary in price from less than $2.00 up to $9.00, depending on where you purchase it. Mark, not surprisingly, has opted to drink beer as it is usually cheaper than Coke and water!

Yummy, but not many vegetables in sight!

An egg store

Chairs

I don’t know what it is about Argentina, but finding a comfortable chair is challenging! They are small, hard and uncomfortable. Regardless of where we were, restaurants, airports or AirBNBs… they were usually uncomfortable! Flat stainless steel is easy to keep clean, but torture on the glutes! We tried to balance on one cheek at a time and shift our weight back and forth in some restaurants, in others, my legs swung like I was a toddler. Most of the time, we looked like parrots perched on top of tiny squares with legs. Even the couches were ridiculous!

Washrooms

Beyond not putting toilet tissue in the toilets (there is nothing more humbling than toting your shame out to the curb to deposit in the trash bin), there is wood everywhere, and thankfully, bidets. Wood, however, does not belong in the shower as trim or as a bathroom vanity. A note to my South American Airbnb hosts ... wood rots! When chatting with Meg, she suggested they take the wood from the bathrooms and add it to the chairs, which I think is a brilliant idea. 

Red indicates where you cannot flush toilet paper!

Dog Walking

I mentioned dog walking previously, but I am fairly confident that it is not a side gig here, but a full-blown career. It is common to see one person wrangling 10 dogs at one time! They look like the helium balloon guy at the circus, but instead of balloons, they are trying to organize dashounds, beagles, collies, golden retrievers and poodles. If you are in Bariloche, you can add St. Bernards to the mix!

You could pay $20.00 to pose for a photo with this beauty on the bottom left!

Stunning Scenery

Without a doubt, Argentina has some of the most spectacular natural and geographical sights we have ever seen. It has everything from beautiful mountains, gorgeous glaciers, serene lakes, and stunning waterfalls. We have spent a great deal of time outdoors hiking and enjoying these natural wonders, and are so grateful for our experiences here. We are off to Santiago, Chile next, so stay tuned for more adventures as we head north into the desert!

Spectacular natural wonders!

Fitz Roy

Mark loves hiking, and when he planned this South American adventure, hiking was sure to be a big part of it. We started to prepare back in the summer while walking along the lake, and added hiking as we headed west across Canada. We worked with a trainer, Eric, a few times a week, who focused on strengthening our legs, ankles and feet. We bought all the gear for hiking; shoes, base layers, buffs and LifeStraw water bottles, so we could drink from streams. Even though I thought we were prepared for hiking and trekking, I was filled with apprehension about the more challenging terrains we would encounter.

Mount Fitz Roy - Here we come!!!

Our driver, Pedro, took us in a private shuttle from El Calafate to El Chaltén with Sharon and (little) Mark. We saw lots of animals like, ostrich, armadillo, wild horses, condors and guanacas that are related to the llama. The views were spectacular, and we could see Mount Fitz Roy in the distance. It was huge, and I was not feeling confident about hiking that monstrosity! Mark had increased the length and elevation of our hiking leading up to El Chaltén to prepare us to tackle it. We knew it was a 10 km hike into the glacier lake with elevation gains at the beginning and a very challenging 1 km scramble that would feel like straight up at the end. Although it was a 20 km hike total, the reality, including the elevation gain, was a lot more. This would be the most challenging hike in both distance and elevation that any of us had done. The four of us agreed we would go at our own pace, stop as often as we needed, and turn back when we had pushed ourselves to our max - no guilt, no shame. 

Enroute to El Chaltén

We had free welcome drinks in a restaurant at the base of the trail upon our arrival, so of course, we had to take advantage of that! Although the beverages were enjoyable, we didn't do ourselves any favours by watching hikers return from Fitz Roy the night before our planned ascent. Some people were limping, some were exhausted, and some, the veteran hikers, looked like they had taken a stroll in the park. But... what we also noticed was that there were all ages, shapes and abilities! We could do this. Sharon started to narrate the conversations happening outside the restaurant, which sent me into a huge giggle fit. There is nothing like a good laugh to ease your nerves. Unfortunately, by the time we made it back to our apartment, all that relief had vanished, at least for three of us. Mark never doubted our abilities and is the most patient, supportive and motivating person I know. 

The restaurant/bar La Birre del Rancho where we had drinks and
watched the hikers coming down from Fitz Roy

We filled our water bottles and laid out our layers of clothing, chapstick, sunscreen, and backpacks. We packed our trail mix, fruit, bars and made sandwiches. There was nothing left to do but get a good night's sleep. Mark said we needed to be prepared for anything, so I added Band-Aids, Tylenol, Advil and Aleve to my pack. Unbeknownst to Mark and me, that conversation sent Sharon and (little) Mark into a tailspin, wondering what they had gotten themselves into. Quietly in their room, they considered everything that could possibly go wrong on this hike and added a knee brace, more Tylenol, Aleve, Benadryl and Immodium to their packs. Little Mark even packed extra underwear! Sharon worried that she might run out of water, and if there wasn't a stream, then she might get dehydrated, and then what would she do? She was also stressed about needing to use the bathroom and figured our relationship would go to a whole new level if she had to $h!t in the woods! Needless to say, when the alarm went off the next morning, Sharon hadn't slept much and was seriously considering backing out. By 7:50 am, not knowing about any of the conversations and apprehensions Sharon and Mark were having the night before, all four of us headed out the door towards the trailhead.

We took photos with the sign indicating the beginning of the trails and more with the Fitz Roy and Laguna Los Tres signs. We all quietly wondered if we would take another photo with this sign on the way back down, celebrating our accomplishments. Sharon and (little) Mark thought no way, I was hopeful, and Mark was feeling pretty confident. 

The BEFORE photos - we all look pretty sleepy!

The sun was shining, and the elevation gain started right away.  Before we knew it, we were winded and peeling off our layers. I got used to using our trekking poles, and about 20 minutes in, started to relax and find my groove. If the elevation continued, it was going to be challenging, but if I pushed myself, I thought I could make it to the 8th or 9th kilometre, and hopefully the really steep part at the end.  It turned out Sharon didn't start to relax until about kilometre 6! 

The trail was so diverse; there were dense forests, rocky outcrops, river crossings, and grassy knolls. Signs marked our progress each kilometre along the way. We checked in with each other often, taking turns setting the pace and navigating the trail. We snacked and kept hydrated, and we all started to feel a little more confident as we went, tired... yet confident. 

Pictures taken at various times throughout the hike - such varied terrain!! 

At around kilometre 9, we stopped at a camp that was equipped with an outhouse, alleviating some of Sharon's nightmares, and we fueled up for the most challenging part of the trek. The last kilometre was going to be steep, 400 meters straight up on rocky shelves and ankle rolling stones. In addition to "scrambling" as Mark called it, the temperatures would start to drop and the winds would begin to whip. Although I don't recall us collectively deciding that we would continue, all of us headed up. We read the sign warning us of what to expect ahead and that this part of the trail required good physical condition. Hmmm, what exactly was good physical condition? I get out of breath bending over to tie up my shoes, (little) Mark gets stomache spasms tying his shoes and my Mark can't even reach his shoes. Does that constitute good physical condition? I don't think so!! What was I thinking?!?

Warnings at Kilometre 9

Unfortunately, Fitz Roy was in clouds when we finally made it there :(

Putting one foot in front of the other, we all made it to the summit. At one point, Sharon mentioned that her granddaughter Ellie, who is two and a half years old, had declined help with something, saying, "No thanks, Nana, Ellie can do hard things."  She couldn't wait to return home and tell Ellie that Nana could do hard things, too. We videod a message for Ellie, and we had a little emotional moment together on the climb together. I let her know that Ellie would be so proud of her and that I was very proud of her, too. It is really special to share these moments with friends we love dearly and feel incredibly grateful.

Look Ellie, Nana can do hard things! This photo gives you an indication of
just how steep this section of the trail was. 

At the summit, the weather had certainly changed, and we needed to layer up to cut the wind. The view of the lake and glacier was spectacular, and Mark wanted to head down to the "tarn" lake. Off we went without even getting a picture of all four of us at the top! We took lots of photos at lake level and scrambled another hill to see another lake and a beautiful waterfall. The wind was so strong it knocked us off balance, and then the rain started. It was so windy that the rain felt like hail on our faces and hands. We had done it, we had made it to Mount Fitz Roy! Now all we had to do was turn around and get back down. We were not done at all; we were only halfway there. 

One of my favourite photos of Mark!

Fighting the wind as the rain was starting.

We started back down, and the first kilometre was more challenging than it was going up. My legs were on fire. We were so thankful for our trekking poles as they saved us from near falls several times. The fellow hiking behind me was not so lucky, and down he went, sliding closer and closer to me. I could see the rocks rolling past me, and I braced myself for his impact. Like a slow-motion video, I imagined my feet being knocked out from under me and landing hard; thankfully, he stopped right at my heels. As the day progressed, we had a little more bounce in our steps, knowing the hardest part was behind us. Sharon said she was never so happy to see the mile marker indicating we had 8 kilometres left. We chuckled, as up until that point, the longest hike Sharon and (little) Mark had done was about 8 km, and here we were approaching kilometre 17! 

Not only was the descent challenging, but we also had to navigate around climbers on their way up!

Only 8 more kilometres until the base!

The last 2 kilometres of the 25.69-kilometre total were the hardest; we were tired, and it was a steep descent. Our legs were feeling wobbly, and we couldn't wait to be done! We celebrated at the original sign we had posed at 10 and a half hours earlier. We would have loved to have captured a photo of us all jumping, but that was definately NOT in the cards. It was time to return to the bar for my celebratory Coke! We held our heads high, shoulders back and walked strongly forward. We were not going to provide any anxious hikers with commentary or entertainment - only awe and hope! Mark and (little) Mark returned our trekking poles, and Sharon and I didn't wait for their return before we raised a glass... and a can!

Celebrations at the bottom after 10 1/2 hours of hiking!

Fitz Roy, on the day we left El Chaltén. Unfortunately, it wasn't quite as clear when we were hiking.

From Top to Bottom of the Americas!

I'm sure you all can recall the adventures we had driving to Tuktoyaktuk and swimming in the Arctic Ocean at the northernmost point in North America. If not, the highlights were 800 km dirt roads, lots of dust, flat tires and NO moose! You can read more in our previous post titled "The Dempster Highway to Tuktoyaktuk NWT - We did it!!" One of the reasons that we opted to take that chilly dip at the northern tip of North America was that we would be travelling to Ushuaia, known as the end of the world in Argentina. They call it the end of the world because it is the furthest city south you can drive in South America. Mark, being the retired geography teacher that he is, thought it would be fun to swim at both ends of the Americas, the VERY cold ends. Yeah... totally fun! Well, I can report that we did just that today!

Ushuaia’s climate is a stark contrast to Rio’s. We had to dig out pants, socks, puffer jackets, hats, mittens, and our hiking boots. Many of you likely know the Patagonia clothing brand...well, we are now in the mountainous region that inspired its name. It’s stunning here: beautiful, windy, and undeniably chilly! Although when I say chilly, I mean about 9 degrees, still not as cold as it’s been at home! But I bet none of you are polar dipping in Lake Erie just so you can say you have done it, are you!!!

Us before our Polar Plunge!

We bundled up for a sailing trip through the Beagle Channel to H Island for our first adventure in Ushuaia. We saw lots of wildlife en route, including King cormorants, Skuas, a whale, and two different types of sea lions. I was thrilled to see Magellenic penguins swimming alongside the sailboat, but we only managed to capture a photo of one. The cormorants here look almost like penguins in their markings, and we visited a South American tern rookery, which was similar to the Arctic tern we see at home.

The locals say they have not had much of a summer this year, but thankfully, we have been blessed with a few days of milder and sunnier weather. We headed to the Tierra Del Fuego National Park for some hiking, and that is where we took our second chilly dip - in the Southern Ocean this time. Actually, it was the Beagle Channel that leads to the Southern Ocean, but close enough! Our friends Mark and Sharon have joined us travelling and (little) Mark was also keen to take a polar plunge with us. We couldn't talk Sharon into it. I have very smart and sensible friends... so she was our videographer! I would like you to take note of how we were dressed immediately prior to our swimming adventure. It had been raining, and we were already chilled to the bone. The wind was whistling, and there were white caps on the water. I suggested maybe we wait for a warmer day to take a polar plunge. Nope, Mark wasn't buying that stall tactic at all. He thought we should complete the challenge today, who knows what the weather holds for the next few days? (Might I add that as I edit this post two days after our polar plunge, it is warm and sunny and a balmy 15 degrees!😏 Of course!) 

Little Mark was stoked and ran headlong into the icy cold water. He stayed there far longer than I thought he should have without turning blue. A few spectators were watching our shenanigans from shore, wondering what on earth we were up to. My Mark was next in, then, very reluctantly, in I went. It was COLD... the waves were crashing, and I am sure that I did turn blue. I ask myself why... why am I doing this? My very smart and sensible friend Sharon is warm and dry on shore, yet here I am forming the biggest goose bumps possible in places I didn't even know you could have goose bumps! But... I can say I have swum at both ends of the Americas, now. Thank goodness for that; you never know when that accomplishment will come in handy. We told Mark and Sharon that their next trip had to be up the Dempster so they could also claim the same accolades as us. They were not too keen on driving the 800 km gravel road, I have no idea why! Oh yes I do... I have SMART and SENSIBLE friends!

Our dip in the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia, Argentina!

The top two photos are of us in Tuktoyaktuk, NWT, and the bottom two are of us in Ushuai, Argentina. 

We still have a few more days in the Patagonia region, which we will fill with some more hiking and exploring before we start heading north to El Calafate. I'm fairly confident there will be no more icy plunges, though. 

New Wonder of the World - Iguazu Falls.

We visited one of the New 7 Wonders of the World this week, and it did not disappoint. When my students were researching South America, to give us suggestions for our trip, Arabella and Maverick chose to learn about Iguazu Falls. We visited both the Brazilian and Argentine sides and had two spectacular perspectives of the multitude of falls. 

We headed out early by Uber to catch the bus inside the park that took us to the Devil's Throat. It was beautiful, hot, and sunny, and when we reached the falls, it was 37 degrees. We were hiking mainly in the shade, so the heat wasn't too unbearable. When we reached Devil's Throat, we walked out on a platform into the mist. The Brazilian side gave us a perspective from below the falls, and as we walked along the river, we got spectacular views. We took so many photos, and every corner provided more stunning scenery. 

So sunny and beautiful with loads of rainbows!

We counted more than 20 different waterfalls in one view we had!

The Argentine side provided a perspective from above, and two other hiking trails. It had a small train that took us to the Devil's Throat, which was a thrilling experience. Again, we got up early to catch the first train in and were among the first people to reach the falls. It quickly got busier as the day went on, and we were ready to head out around noon. It is hard to find words to express the beauty of the falls, so I will share lots of pictures to give you an idea of what you can add to your bucket list when visiting Brazil and Argentina. It is truly a natural wonder. Thanks, Mav and Arabella, for the recommendation. 

We planned to take this boat tour, but Mark's tummy wasn't feeling well so we thought it better
to skip this time. 🤮

Another stunning day with beautiful views!

The Devil's Throat - we were soaked!

Some of the wildlife we saw. Iguanas, Vultures, Coatis and Cormorants