Atacama Desert

The Atacama Desert in Northern Chile is one of the driest places on earth, yet life not only survives but thrives. I’m not quite sure what I was expecting when Mark said we were heading to the desert for more hiking, mountains and volcanoes, but I was pleasantly surprised by what we discovered. In and around San Pedro de Atacama, we saw everything from moon-like landscapes, starry galaxies, stunning sunsets, saltwater lagoons, salt flats, flamingos, volcanoes, slot canyons, green valleys, houses built from straw and mud and the coolest little bustling town. 

Mark was in awe of the landscapes, and I was thrilled to see fresh fruits and vegetables. Definitely not what I was expecting to find in the desert! It was looking like Chile was going to have something for both of us.

San Pedro de Atacama sits at about 2400 m above sea level, which was a good introduction to the elevation we would experience on this leg of the trip. It was recommended that we acclimate in town before we ventured off to any higher destinations. We relaxed a bit and packed our water bottles to head out to the Valley of the Moon. It really did look like the moon! We did a little hiking while keeping an eye on our heart rates, and thankfully, we felt good and adjusted well.  We saw a beautiful sunset and soaked in the spectacular views. 

The next day, we headed to the saltwater lagoon for a float. The water was cool and refreshing. Mark was amazed at his buoyancy. He had never really experienced floating before, but with 30% salt content, he felt like he was walking on water! The highlight of my day was Lake Chaxa, where we got to see flamingos in their natural environment! 

While acclimating, it was recommended that we take things slowly, drink as much water as our bodies could possibly handle, eat smaller meals and drink no alcohol. No problem. I really didn’t want altitude sickness, so I was prepared to excel at these recommendations… unfortunately, my head and bladder had other plans! I drank a lot and peed even more… yet still I got a headache. I figured I just needed more water, so I continued to drink, which, if you know me at all, is challenging unless the beverage comes in a red can! I drank so much water that I got up five times in the night to pee. It was so dry that when I got up, I had to drink even more water - my mouth was like sandpaper. I drank a litre of water in the night alone between bathroom trips! I was worried; this level of water consumption was not sustainable. 

With Advil and Tylenol on board and, of course, a truckload of water, we continued to push our bodies with more elevation gain throughout the week. The drugs had helped with the headache the first couple of days, and soon I was trekking at 4200 meters above sea level, drug-free, without too many complaints. 

Our daily outings took us to some amazing locations, which surprised us both. We hiked through dry dusty slot canyons and lush green valleys. We saw lots of animals, desert plants, and red rock that reminded us of Utah.

There were such vast contrasts in the land and its geography that Mark was in heaven. At least he felt pretty close to it with the crystal clear night skies. We went stargazing after sunsets, and on our last night in the desert, we visited an observatory. We learned all about space and got to see galaxies,  stars, moons and planets through some incredible telescopes.

Honestly, our five days in the desert were out of this world, and the food and people were too! Life is not only surviving here, but it is also thriving, and we were too! Next stop Peru.   Machu Picchu, here we come…, but first, I need to stop for a bathroom break!