Cusco, Peru

Fireworks at 7:00 am to wake the city, spontaneous parades in the streets, endless markets of all kinds and elevation challenges sum up our time in Cusco. The city itself is sprawling, yet it is tucked into a valley surrounded by mountains. It also boasts a white statue of Christ and ruins called Saqsaywaman, which doesn't mean what it sounds like at all!

Returning to elevation brought some challenges for most of us, which we found surprising. Mark had trouble breathing at night and, therefore, trouble sleeping too. After a few hours of sleep, he would wake, not being able to get a deep breath. The first night, he got 2 hours of sleep, and the second night, he was able to get 4, but that was it. By the third night, he slept through once his elevation medication kicked in. We took advantage of some downtime in our apartment, reading books, napping, getting caught up on the blog and watching the news. Although we did some hiking, we all had to take things slowly. As soon as I started hiking uphill, I would start yawning, which was quickly referred to as my oxygen snack. 

Game time!!!

Cusco tucked in amongst the mountains.

Our first night in Cusco, we went out for dinner to an Irish Pub. I was dying for French fries and was certainly not disappointed by the huge bowl that was delivered! Little Mark and Sharon treated us to a delectable steak dinner, and we bought fresh fruit and vegetables at the market for our breakfast and lunches. Sherry Lee introduced us to custard apples and Lucuma yogurt, which was to die for. 

Delicious steak dinner in!!

Just what I was craving!!!

There were markets of all kinds in Cusco, regardless of what you needed... a drain for the sink, new running shoes, tapestries, ceramic bulls, or stuffed llamas, you were sure to find it down a cobblestone street or tucked into a market stall. Vendors sold items in the streets too; juice, fruit, veggies, corn and quail eggs were at your disposal. One vendor was even selling snail slime for your skin that other travellers said was amazing and ten times the price in the US. I wasn't convinced and decided to pass. 

Mark and I LOVE checking out the markets.

We hiked up to see the Christ statue that overlooked the city and were treated to a stunning view. We stopped to watch a parade whose significance we are still unsure of. It seems celebrations and fireworks are going off at any given time of day! Sharon looked it up and learned that fireworks are constant in Cusco due to the deep-rooted cultural and religious traditions of celebrating saints, festivals, and new beginnings with noise and light. The fireworks set off in the mornings (often mistaken for gunshots) are noise celebrations to wake the city and start the day with celebration. We could have done without those!

It was quite the hike up to Christo Blako and Saqsaywaman, especially when you can't get a deep breath!!!

Although Cusco is a rather large city, we all enjoyed our time here. The centre square was beautiful, surrounded by churches and ornate buildings. We all supported the locals by buying gifts to take home as our trip was quickly coming to an end. Rest and quiet time were enjoyed by all as we geared up to head to the Amazon Jungle.  All of us are looking forward to those adventures, and I'm sure there will be more stories to share with you soon... stay tuned!

No horns, yet fireworks can be set off at any time of day, lol!

Machu Picchu, Peru

Such a magical place to explore with the dearest of friends. 

Our South American group of four picked up Sherry Lee in Cusco, and the five of us made our way to Ollantaytambo, Peru. Ollantaytambo is the cutest little Incan village, and it would be our home base while we travelled to Machu Picchu. The town was alive with tourists and locals, and we saw the first day of school ceremonies, where students and teachers paraded through the streets. I think we should have a big parade at HSC on the first day of school next year! The roads were made of cobblestones and decorated with pom pom archways. There was even a human traffic light to direct traffic through a very narrow passage. Beautiful aqueducts ran through the town, supplying water to the businesses and locals.

Ollayantambo

First day of school celebrations.

 We were excited to be visiting another one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. My students, Chloe and Ayla, had researched Peru and highly recommended a visit to Machu Picchu. It was on my bucket list for sure! We took the Peru Rail train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (hot water). We visited the natural hot springs in Aguas Calientes, which the town was named after, and we even dined on alpaca. The food has been spectacular in Peru. The train trip was beautiful, passing through mountains, over rivers and through small towns and valleys. We were served quinoa snacks, which is a staple ingredient here and enjoyed the mountain view through the vistadome overhead. The bus trip up to Machu Picchu, on the other hand, was crazy! We climbed switchbacks where the front of the bus overhung cliffs, going around the corners, and the road had no guardrails. Sherry Lee sat up front with the driver on one trip and couldn’t believe her eyes. She had a whole new appreciation for the drivers by the time we reached our destination.

Avocado trees, schools and the hike up to the hot springs.

The train, Aguas Calientes and some of our meals, yum yum!

The bus ride up...there was a guard rail on the bridge, thank goodness!

Machu Picchu was incredible. It is a once-in-a-lifetime destination for some, and we were lucky enough to visit it two days in a row. Since it was the rainy season, we booked two days to increase our chances of clear views. We got lucky, and both days were spectacular. The views from above were stunning. On our first day, we hired a guide to share facts and history about the ruins, and on the second day, we were on our own to explore. We walked through the fortified town and took pictures with the llamas, who appeared to be posing for photos. They didn’t look real. The stone construction was unbelievable; it was hard to imagine how the Incas carved and moved the stone over miles to build walls where the smooth rocks fit together like puzzles.

Stunning...

Just three Chatsworth gals getting rad with the llamas!

After two spectacular days in Machu Picchu, we ran to catch the train back to Ollantaytambo. We had been enjoying another spectacular dinner and barely made it; I think we were the last ones to board the train. Once back in Ollyantaytambo, we travelled around the Sacred Valley learning about textiles and shopping. We hiked through more ruins where royalty and researchers had once lived. We visited the salt mines and Little Mark, and Sherry Lee even went zip-lining! We hiked through the countryside with spectacular views of the town. We saw so many cacti and even tried the prickly pears, the fruit that grows on the top of the cactus.

Exploring the Sacred Valley

It is hard to put a visit to Machu Picchu into words. The site itself is spectacular, but to visit it with dear friends made the experience even more special. Who would have thought that three childhood friends from Chatsworth would end up in South America together? Ayla and Chloe, thank you for sharing your research on Machu Picchu and for helping us prepare for our trip. Sharon, Little Mark and Sherry Lee, thank you for being a special part of these magical memories with us.

Lake Titicaca

We are always grateful when we get to learn about the culture and people of the places we visit while travelling. On Lake Titicaca, we got to do just that. We boarded our boat early in the morning in Puno city. We were lucky to have great weather, and the women were waiting to greet us when we arrived at the Uros Islands. We were welcomed onto the small floating island by the president. Five families lived on this small section of the floating village. Only the mothers and children are on the islands during the day, as the men are working, harvesting more totora reeds to keep the islands afloat. We learned how the islands were built and required monthly maintenance to prevent them from sinking into the lake. I think our island was ready for a refurb as we all had soakers! The houses are lifted, and new layers of totora reeds are added to the foundation, which is 6 inches higher than the island’s surface every month or so. We were welcomed into the modest one-room home where the family of five lived. They had solar energy, generators and cooked over the fire in the kitchen hut. They had cell phones, radios and even a small TV. The Uros people rely on fish and birds for their meals, and they also eat the tender stalks of the reeds on which their livelihood sits. The totora reeds are peeled like a banana and are a source of calcium, magnesium and other macro nutrients. At different times of the year, the taste varies from sweet to salty. We thought it tasted like celery. While we were enjoying a little snack, a little wet, white, furry dog snuggled up against Sharon and me. Just like the people, he too was very affectionate. Now, not only did we have wet feet, but our pant legs were also damp!

The families on the island share resources with those on neighbouring islands, particularly when it comes to tourism funds. Tourism, along with fishing and bird hunting, are the main source of income for the Uros people. There are small island hotels where guests can stay overnight, and visitors are encouraged to take a ride in the traditional reed boats called balsas. Life is not easy on the floating islands for this Indigenous group, yet the people are steadfast in their traditions, happy and welcoming. The older children help to care for their younger siblings and are taught that they must work and contribute to the family home. We enjoyed watching the little rolly polly youngest child on our island, and Sharon couldn’t help herself but snatched her up for a cuddle. She was so happy, and you could see the joy in her interactions with her older brother and sister, who entertained us by singing during our boat ride. We were starting to see a real theme in the Uros Islands, as when the mom took back the little baby, Sharon was left with a wet lap. Sadly, we also learned that many young children drown in the cool waters, as they don’t learn to swim until the age of 5.

We left a little bit of hearts behind in Uros and boarded the boat with souvenirs in hand to head to the island of Taquile. Two Indigenous groups in Peru inhabit the mainland and coastlines, the Aymara and Quechua. On Taquile, we learned about the Aymara people who have a history from before the Incan Empire. The Aymara people rely on textiles and agriculture for their livelihood. We learned about the family makeup and the customs and traditions surrounding marriage, which was so interesting. The women are the weavers, and the men are the knitters. When a man is ready to choose a wife, he must first knit a hat. The hat is presented to the female prospect and is tested to see if it holds water. If the weave is tight enough to hold water, it suggests that the man is a diligent, meticulous, hard worker and will be a good choice for a spouse. Little Mark was grateful that he had attracted Sharon with his strapping good looks and charismatic personality, as he figured his hat would resemble something more in line with Swiss cheese! The hats are worn in different ways to suggest whether they are children, seeking a spouse, or married. By flipping the Pom-Pom and the top of the toque-like hat to the left, they indicate they are actively seeking a partner. If signals were only that easy in Canada. Children are also presented with knitted hats which indicate their gender by colour. There are also different hats to represent the social class of the Aymara people.

A couple of versions of the hats.

When the women are ready to choose marriage, they must weave a belt to present to their future husband. The belt consists of two components. One is woven from their own hair (yes, you read that right, their own human hair), and the hair of an alpaca, which they use to create a black and white striped pattern. The other portion is a woven textile that is colourful with intricate patterns. When the young women are looking for a spouse, they dress in bold, bright colours, and instead of hats, it is their blouses or shawls that indicate their marital status. The size and number of the pom-poms on their shawls all have different meanings. Neither party may enter into marriage until they have knitted their hat or woven their belt, which often takes months and months of meticulous work.

The black and white is the matrimonial belt made of human hair, and the beautiful textile weaving.

Agriculture flourishes on the steep slopes with terraces, which are hand-built. There are no cars on the island, nor are there working animals; everything has been built by hand. We trekked up the steep slopes, taking in the scenery while managing the altitude gains. It took us an hour to reach our lunch location. Sweaty, thirsty and out of breath, we were all ready for a break! During lunch, we learned how rainbow trout had been introduced and had taken over the smaller fish that inhabited the lake. Quinoa is also a staple ingredient in the Aymara people's diet. We had a delicious quinoa soup that was loaded with vegetables grown on the island. We also saw many sheep on the island whose fur was turned into yarn. We watched a demonstration where a plant is ground and used as a detergent to clean the wool. It is also known to increase hair growth for women when used as a shampoo, so that they may harvest enough of their own hair to weave their matrimonial belt. Sharon and I were thankful that this tradition did not exist in our cultures, as our fine, thin hair would never be able to attract a husband! We tried a sample, and all laughed as Mark rubbed it on the top of his head after our guide promised us that we would all have long, luxurious hair within a month… So stay tuned!

Quinoa soup, and no picture of the trout meal... I had an omelette instead!

After lunch, we were treated to a show, and I learned one of the traditional dances! We got so busy chatting with the people and looking at all the different textiles that we didn’t realize our group had left. We started running down the steep slopes of the island. About ½ way down, Mark thought we were going the wrong way. All of us panicked as there was no way we were going to climb back up to find an alternate route. Trailing at the end, I called out to the others to save themselves! I would just have to resign myself to living amongst the Aymara people. Oh boy, I don’t really like fish, and I certainly don’t have long, luscious locks of hair. I guess I would be relying on that shampoo to work its miracles and fast.

No pictures of the route down! We were too busy running. 

Thankfully, we all made it to the boat on time, and nobody was left behind. It was an incredible day on Lake Titicaca learning about the people, their lives and unique cultures, but we were also grateful to return to our warm showers and DRY, cozy beds.

Atacama Desert

The Atacama Desert in Northern Chile is one of the driest places on earth, yet life not only survives but thrives. I’m not quite sure what I was expecting when Mark said we were heading to the desert for more hiking, mountains and volcanoes, but I was pleasantly surprised by what we discovered. In and around San Pedro de Atacama, we saw everything from moon-like landscapes, starry galaxies, stunning sunsets, saltwater lagoons, salt flats, flamingos, volcanoes, slot canyons, green valleys, houses built from straw and mud and the coolest little bustling town. 

Mark was in awe of the landscapes, and I was thrilled to see fresh fruits and vegetables. Definitely not what I was expecting to find in the desert! It was looking like Chile was going to have something for both of us.

San Pedro de Atacama sits at about 2400 m above sea level, which was a good introduction to the elevation we would experience on this leg of the trip. It was recommended that we acclimate in town before we ventured off to any higher destinations. We relaxed a bit and packed our water bottles to head out to the Valley of the Moon. It really did look like the moon! We did a little hiking while keeping an eye on our heart rates, and thankfully, we felt good and adjusted well.  We saw a beautiful sunset and soaked in the spectacular views. 

The next day, we headed to the saltwater lagoon for a float. The water was cool and refreshing. Mark was amazed at his buoyancy. He had never really experienced floating before, but with 30% salt content, he felt like he was walking on water! The highlight of my day was Lake Chaxa, where we got to see flamingos in their natural environment! 

While acclimating, it was recommended that we take things slowly, drink as much water as our bodies could possibly handle, eat smaller meals and drink no alcohol. No problem. I really didn’t want altitude sickness, so I was prepared to excel at these recommendations… unfortunately, my head and bladder had other plans! I drank a lot and peed even more… yet still I got a headache. I figured I just needed more water, so I continued to drink, which, if you know me at all, is challenging unless the beverage comes in a red can! I drank so much water that I got up five times in the night to pee. It was so dry that when I got up, I had to drink even more water - my mouth was like sandpaper. I drank a litre of water in the night alone between bathroom trips! I was worried; this level of water consumption was not sustainable. 

With Advil and Tylenol on board and, of course, a truckload of water, we continued to push our bodies with more elevation gain throughout the week. The drugs had helped with the headache the first couple of days, and soon I was trekking at 4200 meters above sea level, drug-free, without too many complaints. 

Our daily outings took us to some amazing locations, which surprised us both. We hiked through dry dusty slot canyons and lush green valleys. We saw lots of animals, desert plants, and red rock that reminded us of Utah.

There were such vast contrasts in the land and its geography that Mark was in heaven. At least he felt pretty close to it with the crystal clear night skies. We went stargazing after sunsets, and on our last night in the desert, we visited an observatory. We learned all about space and got to see galaxies,  stars, moons and planets through some incredible telescopes.

Honestly, our five days in the desert were out of this world, and the food and people were too! Life is not only surviving here, but it is also thriving, and we were too! Next stop Peru.   Machu Picchu, here we come…, but first, I need to stop for a bathroom break! 

New Country - Curveballs in Chile!

 We landed in Santiago, Chile, with much warmer weather and a few curveballs to make our stay a little more interesting.

Some of the sites around town and the market.

Our first one was showing up at the cable car on the first Monday of the month, which is maintenance day, and, therefore, it wasn't running. We wanted to see the statue at the top, and we'd just been dropped off by our Uber, so we decided to hike it, in flip-flops with NO water! Not a good move at all. Luckily, near the top, there was a kiosk where we could buy water. The hike was not too strenuous, unlike the previous hiking expeditions Mark has had me on, but it was challenging enough given our preparedness. There were some great views, and we definately earned our dinner that night. 

Curveball number two occurred during our walk around town. We felt what we thought was water or bird poop. It was strange; there was no bird when we looked up, nor were we very close to a building. Sure enough, both Mark and I were covered in 'stuff'. If it were bird poop, the bird was the size of an ostrich. The very nice fellow behind us offered me Kleenex and guided us over to the fountain to wash up, then proceeded to try to take my purse. Yep, we had been bird poop scammed. Thankfully, we got off pretty lucky except when it came to trying to wash the 'stuff' out of our clothing! I was not a happy camper. 

All of the vendors have a specialty. We saw vendors selling just hair accessories, some sink drains, and other white bowls! I took the picture of our meal above because there is a tentacle sticking out of Mark's seafood rice!!!

Curveball number three was booking a manicure and pedicure in what I thought was a salon, but ended up being the nail tech's apartment. Turned out to be the best curveball ever! I had a Russian manicure and pedicure, and it was the best experience I've had getting my nails done... ever. They looked beautiful, and somehow the nail technician managed to make my feet appear as if they hadn't been blistered and calloused from the last five weeks of hiking and trekking! 

Ready for the pool! I tried to coerce Mark into getting a pedicure, too, but he refused!

We just had a quick two-day stop in Santiago, but that was enough of the city. We were looking forward to heading to the Atacama Desert!

Our Argentinian Observations

We have been in Argentina for about a month, and in that time I’ve made some interesting observations. 

Travel

Ubers are plentiful and cheap in many areas and non-existent in others. Whether you are in a taxi or an Uber, or a taxi double-dipping as a Uber, tailgating is an Olympic sport! Traffic signs and the lines painted in the middle of the roads are merely suggestions. If you are driving uphill or downhill in some areas, you have the right of way. Where was this rule when I was learning to drive a stick shift? At some intersections, you have to play a game of chicken to determine who goes first. Regardless of who wins, there are usually lots of hand gestures and horns. We rented two different cars, and Mark had loads of fun driving, especially when approaching an intersection where it was anyone’s guess whose turn it was to proceed! 

Squeezing into the itty-bitty cars!

Cuisine

Meat is everywhere and quite delicious, along with lots of bread and cheese! Vegetables are only present as garnishes except for potatoes. Eggs are in everything; on top of meat, pizza, in pastry, on pasta and in salads. They even have their own shops which sell only eggs.  People carry skids of eggs and strap them on the back of bicycles as if they are not fragile at all. You will be hard-pressed to order something that doesn’t have an egg in it somewhere in Argentina! The prices of groceries are also interesting. You can buy a beautiful steak for $4.00, and in that same shop, a bag of chips is $11.00, go figure! I've also noticed that a bottle or can of Coke can vary in price from less than $2.00 up to $9.00, depending on where you purchase it. Mark, not surprisingly, has opted to drink beer as it is usually cheaper than Coke and water!

Yummy, but not many vegetables in sight!

An egg store

Chairs

I don’t know what it is about Argentina, but finding a comfortable chair is challenging! They are small, hard and uncomfortable. Regardless of where we were, restaurants, airports or AirBNBs… they were usually uncomfortable! Flat stainless steel is easy to keep clean, but torture on the glutes! We tried to balance on one cheek at a time and shift our weight back and forth in some restaurants, in others, my legs swung like I was a toddler. Most of the time, we looked like parrots perched on top of tiny squares with legs. Even the couches were ridiculous!

Washrooms

Beyond not putting toilet tissue in the toilets (there is nothing more humbling than toting your shame out to the curb to deposit in the trash bin), there is wood everywhere, and thankfully, bidets. Wood, however, does not belong in the shower as trim or as a bathroom vanity. A note to my South American Airbnb hosts ... wood rots! When chatting with Meg, she suggested they take the wood from the bathrooms and add it to the chairs, which I think is a brilliant idea. 

Red indicates where you cannot flush toilet paper!

Dog Walking

I mentioned dog walking previously, but I am fairly confident that it is not a side gig here, but a full-blown career. It is common to see one person wrangling 10 dogs at one time! They look like the helium balloon guy at the circus, but instead of balloons, they are trying to organize dashounds, beagles, collies, golden retrievers and poodles. If you are in Bariloche, you can add St. Bernards to the mix!

You could pay $20.00 to pose for a photo with this beauty on the bottom left!

Stunning Scenery

Without a doubt, Argentina has some of the most spectacular natural and geographical sights we have ever seen. It has everything from beautiful mountains, gorgeous glaciers, serene lakes, and stunning waterfalls. We have spent a great deal of time outdoors hiking and enjoying these natural wonders, and are so grateful for our experiences here. We are off to Santiago, Chile next, so stay tuned for more adventures as we head north into the desert!

Spectacular natural wonders!